1. Wheels sizes

TR2-6 all use 4 lug bolts on a 4.5" circle. It's a fairly common pattern, here's a partial list of cars that use it :

1989-85 CHEVROLET - Sprint

1996-92 EAGLE - Summit Wagon

1993-84 Summit

1994-89 FORD - Festiva

1996-89 GEO - Metro, Sprint

2000-92 HONDA - Prelude (15")

2000-90 Accord

1999-91 HYUNDAI - Elantra, Lantra

1999-90 Accent, Excel, Pony

1999-89 Sonata

1995-90 Scoupe

1989-81 MAZDA - 323, GLC

1987-85 626, MX-6

1998-92 MITSUBISHI - Expo, Expo LRV, Vista Wagon

1999-84 Galant

1993-84 Mirage

1991-80 Tredia

1999-93 NISSAN - Altima

1995-82 Stanza

1991-84 Maxima

1990-78 B310, Pulsar

1986-82 Sentra, Sunny

1999-84 PLYMOUTH - Colt Vista

1993-84 Colt

1985-79 Arrow, Champ

1999-89 SUZUKI - Swift

1991-83 SAAB - 900

1991-80 TOYOTA - Cressida

1985-80 Celica (14")

1982-79 Tercel(4WD)

2. tires sizes (with table)

2.1 General info

Reading the post from people educated people can be confusing because they assume a lot of things you do not know about. That’s why I list a few trivialities below:

Original tires were not what everybody uses on the road today, namely RADIAL tires. They were so-called bias-ply type. That’s a very different construction that results in much poorer road-holding
Full description of a tire is made with 3 numbers: like 165/70x15. The first number is the width of the tire or section (in mm), the second number is the aspect ratio (it is the ration of the wall heigh to the width. 165/70 means 165*0.7=115.5 mm wall height), and the third number is the wheel diameter or rim size (in inches!).
A lot of people only refer to the 1^st and the last number and assume the middle one. This is OK only if you talk about tire models of which you know the aspect ratio.
Available tires today do not have the exact same sizes (diameter and width) as the original
Tire size has to be matched to the rims. No only in internal diameter but also in width. A narrow rim cannot accommodate too large a tire.
The width-to-height ratio will influence
A number of people are moving away from their original rims to improve behaviour and safety. In particular, 48-spoke wheel are abandoned for the stiffer 60 or 72 spokes or for aluminium alloy wheel, preferable in vintage-style 8-spokes.
Alloy wheels do not require maintenance like spoke wheels do, they do not fatigue as much (at least the modern ones because it seems that in the 60’s the situation was the opposite), they give better performance because they are stiffer, and they are better balanced. Plus they are a lot easier to clean! (I really wonder why I do not have any yet

Back then, Michelin, the inventor of the radial, was fitted as an upgrade to sportscars. In the mean time there are alternatives, but not so many it seems.

2.2 Healey

‘A lot of people put 165X15 tires on their car, but a 175x15 has actually the correct 26” diameter the 5.90x15 bias-ply had.”
‘165x15 is a much smaller tire, diametrically, than original . Some folks just don't like their wheel wells filled so they keep on running the 165x15” ‘
To which Gary Anderson replies: ‘The main reason is that the Dunlop SP20, which only comes in 165/15 size, is a better tire, made with current technology and materials. It has a reasonably narrow width, even though it's just a bit smaller in diameter, but is a safer and more comfortable driving tire than the alternatives. ‘

Someone had mentioned Michelin PilotXGT-4 195/65R-15 mounted on 72 spoke wires. (Francois)

2.3 Summary table

The tables below summarizes what I have been able to gather (but look also at the comments below):

Nb of spokes	48-spokes	60-spokes	72-spokes or minlite
Rim width	4”	4.5”	5 to 5.5
Tire	165x15	165x15	175x15 or 195/70x15
or		175x15 (5” width minimum recommended but customary on 4.5”)
Make	Michelin Xz or XZX	Michelin Xz or XZX	Michelin Xz or XZX
or	Dunlop SP20 (weighs 16.4 pounds/tire)	Dunlop SP20s	Dunlop SP20s? Goodyear Eagle GT+4
or	Kumho (771) is the correct 165/80R15 25.4” cheap	Kumho (771) is the correct 165/80R15 25.4” cheap	Kumho (771)?
		Vredestein Sprint ST70 185	Vredestein Sprint ST70 185

“Vredestein Sprint ST70 185s. Though they're "only" S-rated, I've been quite happy with them. Good handling dry or wet”

From: Editorgary_at_aol.com
I have Dunlop SP20 165/15, which might be available in 175/15. Some people buy Michelin XZs in 175/15. I know from Dunlop that the SP20 is a recent design and takes advantage of modern technology. I understand the Michelin tire uses earlier technology.

From: "Phil Ethier" <pethier_at_isd.net>

The Kumho tires are probably at least as good as the Remingtons and maybe the Dunlops, too, for 28 bucks. They seem to stick OK, did not chunk to pieces at an autocross on asphalt, don't make ugly noises and balanced OK. I can't tell you if they are stickier than the Dunlops, but they seem to be good tires.

Brian Sanborn sanborn_at_net1plus.com

Michelin XAS is the nicest but super expensive from Coker tire. It is a true 165x15 80 series with the correct 25.4" diameter

David Nock : HealeyDoc_at_aol.com
We install 195/70x15 Goodyear Eagle GT+4 tires (and also Vrederstien) on Healeys and have no problems, we are in the same size. They are the same diameter as the original 590x15 tires and 25% wider, they do not stick out of the fender well and the only place that there is a rubbing problem is on the inner front fender panel where the fender well is extended to the shroud. This only happens when you have the steering at full lock to
the left or right. I have been running these on my own personal car for years and they perform great.

From: Earl Kagna <kags_at_shaw.ca>

I went through a similar process a couple of years ago - wound up deciding that the Michelin 175 x 15 ZX was the closest tire to the original 5.90 15 Dunlop RS that the factory installed. I believe that they have a diameter that is about 3/4" larger than the 165 x 15, which would increase the ground clearance 1/2 of that. I even went to the trouble to mount and air one of these, as well as an old (but hardly worn) Dunlop RS4 to do my measuring - same diameter - 25 1/4". (just went out to the garage and checked a spare).

I now run those tires on both Healeys (5 per car), and several friends are using them as well. Everyone is happy with them - they look 'proper' in the wheel well, fit the 48, 60 and 72 spoke wheels, are designed to run with or without tubes, and will fit into the spare storage area with no problems on 48 or 60 spoke wheels

From: bn1_at_pacbell.net

I have an early BN1. I have the smallest front wheel wells of any Healey measuring 9 1/2" from the bead to the top of the arch. Everyone said it couldn't be done, but it can. I mounted Dayton 6" chrome/stainless 72's with Dunlop SP 4000 205/65/15's. The vertical clearance is very close to original and IMHO they look great and certainly fill the wheel well.

However, I have a couple of cautions: You must have at least a 5/8" sway bar, I'm upgrading to a 3/4". And, your front shocks need to be new or very close to new.

Just some math:

165/80R15 diameter is 25.4”

175/80R15 diameter is 26.0”

195/70R15 diameter is 25.7”

3. Wire wheels balancing

From: "Jan Andersson" < janne.andersson_at_orebro.se >

The easiest way to balance wire-wheels is to use an old Healey rear hub extension with spinner and bolt it on the tyre shops balancing machine. Most balancing machines do have the possibility to bolt on an adapter plate for balancing wheels without a hole in the centre (a lot of French cars lacks centre hole). On some machines a spacer is needed between the hub and the balancing machine to avoid the bolts on the machine to foul the centre of the wheel and on some machines you need to bring your own conical nuts.

When the extension is fitted to the balancing machine put the wheel on the extension, tighten the spinner (it doesn't matter if you use a hexagonal nut or a spinner because the mass of the spinner is situated in the centre of the wheel and won't affect the balance) and balance the wheel.

I've used this method for about 10 years on all my British cars and I do have perfect balance on all of them.

From: "Laurie Wilford" <healeymk3_at_hotmail.com>

Subject: Re: wire wheel balance problem

I had a similar problem this spring. I rotated my wheels front to back and developed what felt like inbalance at 50 - 60. After playing around trying to fix it for a while (including checking the wheels static balance) I came to the conclusion that I had tightened one rear knock-on with too much weight on the tire. The wheel must have been tightened on the hub a little off centre. I removed that wheel, rotated it 180 degrees on the hub, and tightened it in the air. Problem solved. I cannot understand what the 180 degree rotation would have done, so I believe it was the tightening that fixed the inbalance.

From: David Maxwell / Mrs. Peel DMMax_at_aol.com

Subject: Re: Wheel Balancing to Cure Wheel Wobble (Big Healey)

I've been meaning to write list to endorse the procedures and services of our US service provider, Hendrix Wire Wheel. They checked wheel trueness, installed and balance AND SHAVED TO ROUND my new tires, and balanced my rear brake drums. Also may have correctly diagnosed a tire wear problem.

My already rather smooth riding car was notably improved. (Smooth as Oban). I highly endorse these procedures.

And for those of us who drink cold beer and think Lew is the guy out back, Hendrix is a very good option. He was fast, courteous and skillful, and fairly priced.

By the way, so far I have liked my new Vredsteins he sold me. (185/70)

4. Tire aging

General consensus of tire experts is that radials don't age well, and any radial over five years old should be viewed with suspicion and monitored carefully. Older radials tend to split between the belts and the sidewalls. Unfortunately it usually happens on the inside, under the car, not on the outside where it would be visible. If you do decide to drive on them, be VERY sensitive to any feeling of tire being out-of-round. If you sense that, stop IMMEDIATELY and check the tires.

5. TR3 spare tire

From: "Randall Young" <ryoung_at_navcomtech.com>

Check out the local junkyard for a 'compact spare' for a modern car with 14" wheels. They frequently use a T125-15 spare that fits perfectly on a TR3 rim, and leaves gobs of room in the spare tire well

6. Wheels (Rims)

6.1 Healey rims

From: "Magnus Karlsson" <healey_at_telia.com>

I use the alloy knock offs with Michelin 175x15 tyres. In my opinion this set of wheels totally transforms the car. The road holding is improved by vast amounts. After buying this set I immediately sold my old 72 spokes.

Keith Pennell

I chose to go with Minilite repros on the BN7 and I love them. They are 6 inch and bolt on as I did not want splines or spokes. Price approx $180 each. These are by Compomotive in England. Do a search, they have a website.

From: Ralf HealeyXL_at_aol.com

I was close buying the 5.5 alloys for my BT7 as well but finally decided to go for the 5.5 chrome wire spoke wheels (Dunlop) since the original 2-eared knock-offs I like to keep look a bit strange on the alloys. with 195/70/15 tires. Still looks quite authentic, has a nearly perfect diameter match vs. the original 5.90x15 tires, fills the fenders properly and drives great.

6.2 Matching silver color (WW)

From: Greg Lemon Grglmn_at_cs.com

I use Rust-Oleum "aluminum" on all my wire and disc wheels on all the british cars I have owned. It goes on bright but settles down a bit after a few months. It is too bright for a concourse car, but I think looks better than original, coupled with a couple coats of rusty metal primer. It keeps the rust spots off the wire wheels for a long time. I have sprayed so much of it on wire wheels over the years that I consider it an "aftermarket option", but as I said it is not the thing for a concourse car

From: Roger Moment Rmoment_at_aol.com

Subject: Re: Need help on silver color too

Years ago British Wire Wheel told me they used 1971 Mercedes Astral Silver. It is closer than many silver shades. Aluminum is too bright. A "silver" of some sort would be better.

From: Rmoment_at_aol.com

On the wheel silver, I want to get this right so the formula can be posted to all. Seems everybody uses what is available in a spray can. I am a restoration business and am willing to go the extra mile.

As for wheel silver, I've found Eastwoods Detail Silver, which they sell as a wire wheel paint, is really rather good. If you put a wheel painted with this stuff right along side a new Dunlop wheel you can tell they aren't exactly the same shade, but if you have them on a car adjacent to one equipped with new Dunlop wheels I think it would be hard to see much of a difference. I use the Eastwood paint, sprayed into a cap, to do brush touch-up with on my Dunlop-painted wheels.